HVACR: Refrigeration Service Call (Walk In Refrigerator Not Cooling) Compressor Not Starting/Working

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HVACR (Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning/Refrigeration) Refrigeration Emergency Service Call (Walk In Refrigerator Not Cooling/Walk In Refrigerator Not Working) Beer Cooler Not Working/Compressor Not Starting/Working/How To Check Compressor/How To Check Run Capacitor/How To Check Start Capacitor/Commercial Refrigeration/Walk In Cooler Troubleshooting

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Walk-in refrigerators and freezers are very large, insulated, enclosed spaces used to store and/or display refrigerated or frozen food or other perishable goods. They are used primarily in the food service and food sales industry.
A Walk-in cooler is basically a large scale refrigerator – similar to what you have at home – except you can walk into this one! Every restaurant and fast food chain has a Walk-in cooler and it’s where they store all their refrigerated foods. Unlike a residential refrigerator though, a Walk-in cooler has a lot stronger refrigeration system that allows them to keep their food stored at optimal temperatures in order to meet certain FDA standards and to ensure that it passes local safety and food handling codes.

Businesses from a wide variety of market segments use Walk-in coolers from Floral Boutiques to Breweries to Medical Research Facilities. Walk-in boxes come in all shapes and sizes and depending on the business’s needs, a Walk-in box can come with a lot of unique add-ons and accessories such as thermometers and temperature alarms that monitor temperature inside the box. If a business needs more than just a Walk-in Cooler, they can order a Walk-in Freezer or a Walk-in Combo Box which features to sections inside the box, one cooler and one freezer section.

Walk-ins are constructed using panels. Walk-in Box panels easily lock into place via cam lock and can be installed right over most flooring’s (though you can purchase a Walk-in Box floor separately).

A typical Walk-in Box can range anywhere from thousands of dollars to tens of thousands of dollars depending on many factors such as size, horsepower of Refrigeration unit, add-ons, panel thickness, location (indoor and outdoor) etc.

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Comments

salim izam says:

You too man.
I was looking for this kind of explanation and demonstration that is very rare.
Hope to see the video when you did the work on this unit.
Well done bro.

David Martin says:

You the man bro keep knocking them down

KobeOverLebronAllDay says:

you should never discharge a start cap like that…use your meter or a resistor.

Nicole Rennie says:

fantastic job!! I really appreciate how thorough you are w your craft & make sure you do it RIGHT & CLEAN & WELL. TY JMT🌟

prime time says:

Just a question have you been doing this long? or are you a rookie

Tim the car guy says:

Should have slugged some refrigerant in it to keep their food cold till the next weekday then come back and do a leak search

David Sweet says:

Good video. When you have a potential relay there should be a bleed resister on the start capacity.

Mario Perez says:

Those compressors are not cheap to put a titen 2.60 $ instead of usa hd for $6.00 I would not take the chance.thanks for the vid,keep posting.

Tyrone Sheppard says:

I noticed at the 4:22 time stamp you stated even though the system was marked as R-12, it was actually using R-134a. I understand that your reasoning for that statement was the phaseout of R-12 many years ago. However, if that system was actually using R-134a as you stated, it should have been CLEARLY remarked by the contractor that did the work with R-134a identifiers to indicate a refrigerant retrofit took place on the system. That is standard procedure for all refrigerant retrofits. Since that wasn't done, many technicians would think that was an old R-12 system that never went through a retrofit. Also, the low pressure switch setpoints would tell a technician if the cut-in and differential setpoints were set on the correct setpoints for the refrigerant type being used. I would look at those setpoints to see if they were truly set up for R-134a or if the setpoints were set up for R-12 pressure/temperature. That system could just be an old system that has stood the test of time and still has R-12 in it. I use the phrase "stood the test of time" until now that you were dispatched on to this service call where it has obviously finally shut down.

W D says:

The proper and ( SAFE ) way to discharge a capacitor is to set your meter on D/C voltage and put your probes on cap, and It will slowly start to drain it. I won 50 bucks off a guy one time when I told him I could OHM out a capacitor and find out if it's good or not. He goes I don't give a fk who taught you refrigeration you can't ohm out a cap. So we go to his van he get's out a cap I take his meter set to DC and drain it. Then I go NOW I am going to set your meter to Ohms and use your 9 volt battery in your meter to charge this capacitor If it's good you will start to see the readings rise which it did because it was new. After he picked his jaw up off the ground and handed me 50 bucks he drove off highly upset.

Richard Harmon says:

Where was leak.i bet it was on evap

Richard Harmon says:

Why no 409a?

Jason Johnson says:

Are they using a boiler for heat add for the loop? Anytime i work on a coaxial system i always do a quick backflush, unless its glycol. It takes a few minutes and very little amount of tools ( i don't disagree with your methods at all ) that unit needs some help

Matt Alexander says:

Nice Video, I enjoyed it. But seriously?? A light with a cord and plug.

shine says:

💪🇺🇸👍❄

Bogdana V says:

Interesting and helpful video. Great job as always.

Eddy says:

Good vid … Thx for posting …

Carlos Emmanuel Garcia Brito says:

Nice and precise good work

Mansour Ramzey says:

Great video

Musa Kavalci says:

As always excellent content

JYP HC says:

You should use R422B is compatible with R 22 mineral oil. R134A is POE OIL

neilvester victor says:

Great work tech 👍

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